By Dan Aceto

Staff Writer

If you could have one last bowl of chili on earth, which would it be?

When chili competition judges hear those fateful words during a cook-off, even the most seasoned cook feels the heat.

This Sunday chili chefs from across New England will compete at Scarborough Downs during the Southern Maine Regional Chili Cook-off, an event sponsored annually by the International Chili Society. 

The organization – the largest of its kind – has raised more than $80 million for various charities since it was established in 1967. 

This year the charity of choice is Meals on Wheels, whichs distributes more than a million meals a day to seniors in need across the U.S. The charity was selected by Bill Noonan, a competition cook who will host this years cook-off and has worked for the agency as an assistant site coordinator for two years. 

Noonan, who is a resident of Cumberland, has competed in chili cook-offs as far as California for the past 28 years and has been recognized as a master chili chef by the International Chili Society, a title bestowed upon him after qualifying six times for the World Championship of Chili.

Noonan’s recipe was not always so successful. 

“The first competition I entered, our team came in dead last,” he said, “but it inspired me to do better the next time.”

And better he did. After tweaking his recipe, Noonan won six regional cook-offs, each qualifying him for a spot in that year’s world championship. Along the way he developed a signature blend of spices he now packages and sells on his website, www.caldwellcountychili.com. 

Although Noonan was reluctant to divulge exactly what goes into his chili, he did give this tip: “Good chili does not have to be overly hot, but it does make you want to have more.”

So what is the secret to making an award-winning chili? 

Although it may come as a surprise to some, crushed tomatoes, beef and chili powder are not the only ingredients that comprise a well-rounded “bowl of red,” according to Noonan.

In addition to spices such as cumin, many cooks favor some type of beef or chicken stock, as opposed to water, which allows a greater depth of flavor to develop over time. 

As for meat, Noonan, like many in competition, said he prefers what is known as the “tri-tip,” a particular cut of beef he meticulously carves into cubed portions 3/8-inch thick, something he said “requires a lot of patience.”

Noonan said no two recipes are ever exactly alike and that he expects nearly 20 “chili-heads,” mostly from New England, to compete this weekend for the title.

Chefs will compete in a variety of categories, including red chili, green chili, salsa and people’s choice, which is open to cooks everywhere free of registration, provided they bring a minimum of two gallons to serve the public. 

Only registered members of the International Chili Society will be allowed to participate in the main events for a $50 annual fee.

Over the course of four hours cooks will season their pots in hopes of winning over the hearts, minds and  – most importantly – taste buds of judges.

Each chili will be judged at random by a panel of 12 elected officials. Each judge will be given three votes – the first worth three points, second worth two, and third worth one – and they’ll taste each entry for flavor, color, aroma and tenderness. 

The winner will win  $500 and the opportunity to compete Oct. 3 at the world championship in Manchester, N.H., for a $25,000 cash prize. 

Noonan said much like chili, no two cook-offs are ever quite the same and most are unpredictable.

During a competition in 1991 he accidentally toppled an entire cup of cayenne pepper into his chili pot only moments before he was to present to judges.

Horrified, Noonan said he frantically began to scoop the scalding hot pepper out by hand just in time for judging. As for the competition, he won. 

For those who have stood through the fire and flames and managed to come out unscathed, the thrill of competition chili-cooking is what inspires chefs such as Noonan to fire up a “bowl of red” year after year.

Staff Writer Dan Aceto can be reached at ext. 237.

For more information

The Southern Maine Regional Chili Cook-off takes place 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday outside at Scarborough Downs with live bands and entertainment throughout the day. Admission is $5 with the donation of two canned food goods benefiting the Good Shepherd Food Bank, or $7 without and entitles patrons to a “tasting kit” that contains a bowl, spoon, napkin and a small object such as a marble to vote in the people’s choice category.